Thurs Aug 18 James, the watchman showed us around for over an hour. Many totem poles are still standing and to hear about their meaning from someone in person is captivating. When it was over we took the scenic path back through some of the greenest, moss-iest, place I've ever seen. But then again all the forest here is like that - if you leave the beach you can't penetrate the forest at all. We left SGang Gway as the SF group was coming in. On the way back to Fanny Point the water was choppy with swells from the rear left. Suddenly I saw some white water ahead and it was two whales jumping, breaching, straight ups, a few hundred metres in front of us they came around to our left and more dorsal fins and blowing for our amazement. And we thought a large seal watching us in the morning and rising high enough to see it's belly before falling away from us was a highlight. We went back to west Fanny Cove to find someone else had beaten us to it so we went to east Fanny Cove. Pretty good site but launching the kayaks was tricky - luckily there has been little in the way of weather so far. Today we left Fanny Cove in flat water and followed the shores of Kunghit Island to Rose Harbour and beyond to Heater Harbour. Winds were calm, skies were blue and tide pushed us along. We spent some time in Heater Harbour looking for a good campsite but couldn't find anything spectacular. This one on the north side is O.K. Saw lots of marine life today in the shallow calm waters but tomorrow may be a kayaking day.